Jungo Boogie 100 Club - Winnemucca to Gerlach, NV
Copyright Mark Johnson 1999, Fort Worth, Texas Put here with permission.
Arriving in Winnemucca along US95, I refuel, check time, and hunt down Jungo
Road. It's a nice, paved local road without much traffic.
Just as I whip on the PIAA 910's I'm greeted by the sight of a cow broadside in
the road. Grabbing the binders, Bossie looks at me and ambles away. Whew! You
think deer are bad? Within 2 miles, the pavement of Jungo Rd ends and a
hard-packed gravel road begins. It's not too bad and I can see the bad spots
under the intense light of the PIAAs so there's no problem with continuing on at
a reduced
pace.
The first 50 miles in is hard pack gravel (Sulfur is just a mine, not a town).
Top speed ~45 mph. "Heck, 100 miles of this ain't too bad. I'll still make
Bruno's by 9 to 10pm and plenty of time before the 2am (local time) window for
the SS2K."
From that point, you follow the Y to the left and it leads to the mine entrance
- fenced and No Trespassing signs abound. Also you now realize the glow in the
sky in the distance wasn't Gerlach, but
was the mine (wilderness ops military training types will understand this
reference). You look at the blocked entrance, and look at the GPS (which still
insists you're on the right road). Then you look at the entrance, and then
wonder if you have to get permission to pass through the mine to continue
onward, and return to the GPS. As you sit there on your bike wondering what's
what, and how to approach the mine for access, someone comes down from on high
in their truck and explains this is the private road to the mine. What you want
is the public road. "Take the Y to the right instead of
to the left."
Backtracking to the Y, I make the branch to the right and find that the first 50
miles were the "improved" section. Jungo deteriorates rapidly from here on and
the "Boogie" begins. We're talking 25 mph trails that would be fun in a Jeep or
on dual sport bike. I glance at the GPS and see: 1h 30m to the junction of
SR447. It's still plenty "do-able" before Bruno locks the doors and leaves me
sleeping in the IB Motel for the cold, cold night.
An hour, and countless jackrabbits later, I am now reduced to long stretches of
sub-15-mph trail with occasional spurts of 25 mph section, frequent washboard
surfaces where the Wing wants to wander,
wallow, and raise my adrenaline levels while "boogying" in the general direction
of my next waypoint. I glance at the GPS and see: 1h 30m to the junction of
SR447. I've gone all of 15 miles in
the past hour! I consider going back, but it's an hour to the midway point and
an hour back to US95. Then about 300 miles or so to Gerlach via the reasonable
route. I press on. After all, it's only an hour and a half and I now have only
about 40 miles to go.
An hour later, and even more jackrabbits later, the road hasn't gotten better.
It may have even gotten worse. More than once I've thought about turning back.
The demon orange eye of the GPS keeps glaring at me. I seem to go farther and
yet it's a major accomplishment with the ETA time drops below 1h 30m. It's
become a big thing when it drops below 1h 30m and doesn't climb back above that
point again. I've had plenty of time to consider my sanity, but determined to
press on as each mile brought me
simultaneously closer to my destination and farther from civilization and
sanity.
Glows in the horizon were a thing of the past - in all directions. Other
vehicles were never to be seen again. Road signs were a mix of old and new. New
signs warned of road conditions. "Slipper when
wet" was a concern since the farther SW I went the more often I saw damp spots
in the road. Speed limit signs mocked me as I forced the Land Barge beyond
design limits. "Dip" signs were especially understated since the last thing I
would have considered a dip would be a gully 15' deep and 30' across. These were
obviously washes where desert flash floods surged when conditions were right.
Jungo Road continued through all of these. So did I.
Older road signs told the story of ages past. Wooden, ragged edged, hand
painted signs beckoned me on toward Gerlach. After all it was only 32 miles away
(or was that 32,000 miles?). Other destinations
were also noted on the cross pieces of these signs from the days of Roy Rogers
and Gabby Hayes. However the letter was weather worn and the lighting at the
wrong angle to read them clearly. Besides that my focus had to remain on keeping
the bike going forward and not down.
The following hours creaped past and the new encouragement from the Orange demon
on the handlebars was to break the 1 hour ETA barrier and keep it there.
Thoughts of "Killer Kamikaze Jackrabbits" were hashed and rehashed. However at
the less-than-mirror-breaking speeds I was running at the jackrabbits were
dancing around in front of the bike; running backwards, dancing sideways,
stopping to thumb their noses at me (with whatever jackrabbits use for thumbs),
and dashing on after their repeated taunts. On one occasion, at the edge of the
PIAAs, I saw the ghostly shape of a deer as it appeared to glide completely
across the road in a single leap. The most endangered species out in the middle
of nowhere this night (besides me and the bike) were desert mice. This little
nasties were scurrying along the sides of the road in force. Those brave enough
to follow their jackrabbit cousins in front of the chattering front forks were
occasionally ground to a pulp as they succumbed to the weight of the GL1500GS.
"Killer Kamikaze Mice" just doesn't have the same ring.
Thoughts of breaking down, never to be seen again, were a constant companion. 2
tanks of fuel, a large bike burning in the desert blackness, water and food
(Cliff bars and jackrabbits that my M40 might down) were all considered
under the constantly percolating contingency plans. And ever I pressed on.
Trying to push faster and Jungo Road pushing back harder to make me keep the
speed under 15 mph for fear of breaking the suspension. Jungo had also chosen to
vary itself to include rising and falling sweepers on surfaces as soft and
sifting as baby powder, more "dips", more puddles, and more (and more, and more)
washboards. Concerns about shredded tires from the rocks, busted fork seals from
the harsh surface merged with shatter nerves, pounded wrists and joints into a
single soul numbing wall that had to be ripped asunder.
Eternities followed eternities as I broke the 1 hour, the 45 min, and the 30 min
barriers on the GPS. Finally I crossed the last of the desert hills and a small
cluster of lights was visible in the distance. GERLACH! Crossing the last rise
before seeing ABQ, NM at night when approaching from the west had never been as
beautiful a sight. So near and, yet, so far. Even as close as I was to SR447,
Jungo never relaxed its attack. That last 5 miles took at least 15 minutes.
Fifteen eternities because the night jewel of Gerlach was so temptingly close.
Now it was a test of time. It was quickly
approaching 11pm local time and that's when Bruno closes up shop and those who
haven't checked in yet are left with few options.
I finally turned onto SR477 and turned north, twisting the throttle as far and
as hard as my tortured wrists could force it. A false pass around the hotel
earned me a visit with another patron who directed me up the road to the saloon
where Bruno's "Office" was. Back on the road, half a mile farther north, off the
bike, in the door and it was over. 10:57pm! Bruno and one customer were the only
faces to look up as I walked in. I'm not sure what they thought about the idiot
who just did the Jungo Boogie 100 on a
street bike. A signed business card from Bruno stopped the clock for the SS2k
with about 2 hours to spare. A comped can of Guinness from Bruno washed down the
dust and determination. And a short,
easy ride back to the motel ended a most unique personal journey.
Thursday nights sleep was deep and uninterrupted. An early breakfast Friday
morning had me back at the hotel in time to greet John Cheney as he pulled in. A
lazy afternoon around Gerlach had us both itching for the festivities to begin.
Seeing Warchild pull in and head inside for some quick sack time was our first
indication that this town was about to start jiving!