GoldWing World

GL-1800 Frame / Design

Just when you thought it was safe to re-enter the touring market ... the GL-1800 is Honda's newest revision to the Gold Wing line. Like any new design it has a few first-year bugs (which we'll mention below) but overall the design goal to create a new sportier wing without sacrificing the comfort or carrying capacity of the existing design were accomplished in true Honda style. The new 1800 cc engine is lighter and smaller and now sports fuel-injection and non-hydraulic lifters that still maintain 15,000 miles between adjustments. A Chain camshaft pulley also limits flex and timing problems that arguably could detract from performance. This is not your father's Gold Wing - but it may just become your wifes!

Honda's flagship, the Gold Wing affectionately known simply as "the Wing" has been the big engine touring icon for nearly 25 years. For the year 2001 the Wing is an entirely new motorcycle with barely a part carried over and yet it remains unmistakably a Wing.

The heart of the Wing has long been a horizontally opposed 6-cyclinder engine with the cylinders arranged flat and boasting a large displacement. The entirely new engine retains the familiar layout but with the size increased to 1832 cc producing an unprecedented 118 bhp and 125 lb./ft. of torque all.

The chassis is a multi-box-section aluminum dual spar frame assembly which is lighter than the previous unit. It is engineered with a Pro Arm(r) single side cast aluminum swing arm for excellent stability and increasing the ease of rear tire changes. The 2001 Gold Wing sets new class standards for handling.

Honda's Linked braking system (LBS) provides superb braking control over many conditions and varying road surfaces firstly by coupling the dual front and single rear brake discs. Using the front brake lever activates both the front calipers and the rear caliper. The rear brake pedal operates the rear brake caliper and the front calipers. An Anti Lock Brake System (ABS) features an electric-motor-driven modulator that provides rapid and precise braking pressure adjustments, resulting in smooth ABS operation. The system incorporates an integrated electronic control unit (ECU), self diagnostics with an interactive ECU test function, and automatic protection against system failure.

Rider and passenger comforts are outstanding with rear suspension adjustable from the riding position and also features a 2 position memory setting for when changing from solo to two-up riding. Comfort and convenience extend further still with surround sound and optional CD stacker. The audio system capabilities include rider-to-rider intercom system, a CB radio that permits bike to communication (to similarly mounted Goldwing riders!) and automatic volume control that increases and decreases according to the bike speed, automatically adjusting for ambient noise.

Key Areas

	Alternator and Charging
	Brakes
	Fuel Injection and Air Intake
	Chrome
	Clutch
	Exhaust System
	Lighting
	Lubrication
	Radio
	Seats
	Shocks & Suspension
	Starter and Ignition
	Timing
	Transmission
	Wheels and Tires
	Windshields
	FEATURES
	ACCESSORIES
	SPECIFICATIONS
	PICTURES
	BUGS AND RECALLS

FEATURES

	Powerful new fuel injected 1832 cc six cylinder engine produces smooth, effortless power 118 bhp and 125 lb./ft. of torque while meeting the California Air Resources Board (CARB) 2008 emissions standards.
	Beautiful multi-box-section aluminum dual spar frame assembly is 11 kg lighter than the previous steel design. Engineered with a Pro Arm(r) single side cast aluminum swing arm, the 2001 Gold Wing sets new class standards for handling.
	Honda's proven Linked Braking System(r) (LBS(r)) provides superb braking power in a wide range of operating conditions. Optional model adds Anti Lock Brake System (ABS) for even better control during hard braking.
	Allen antidote system minimizes front fork dive when braking.
	New, computer controlled adjustable hydraulic rear suspension pre load.
	Redesigned slow speed electric reverse system.
	Allen, lightweight electronic cruise control system.
	Remote control operates trunk and locks/unlocks trunk and saddlebags.
	State-of-the-art audio system with optional CD player.
	A complete line of bolt-on accessories and appearance items.

ENGINE

	The exhaustively tested 1832 cc liquid cooled horizontally opposed six cylinder engine is 1 kg lighter than the previous design.
	Low, forward engine placement and solid engine mounting produce excellent road handling characteristics and impressive low speed maneuverability.
	Parallel two valve cylinder head design utilizes direct, shim-under-bucket valve actuation and requires no 1000 km service; the first valve clearance inspection is at 50,000km.
	Silent type camshaft chains with automatic adjusters provide reliable, maintenance free operation.
	6.9-litre air box supplies a large volume of cool clean air to the engine.
	Two 40mm-diameter throttle bodies deliver air to six, specially designed Keihin(r) 50-psi high-pressure fuel injectors. Fuel is delivered through four nozzle tips in each injector, producing an atomized fuel mixture that is highly combustible, for optimum efficiency and power.
	Electronic CPU provides two digital 3-D fuel injection maps for each cylinder and one digital
	3-D ignition map for each cylinder, creating ideal fuel mixture and spark advance settings for superb rideability. Unique knock control sensor monitors ignition advance to improve performance throughout the entire rpm range.
	CPU-controlled, closed loop emission control system utilizes two oxygen sensors to constantly deliver a precise, air/fuel mixture while two exhaust catalyzers reduce emissions of carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides further.
	Rotary Air Control Valve(tm) (RACV) provides auto choke function and maintains precise idle control under widely varying engine loads and operating temperatures.
	High-pressure-formed, sintered iron Nickalloy(tm) crankshaft bearing caps provide quiet engine operation throughout the engine's operating temperature range.
	Compact water pump is mounted behind the engine and is driven directly by the crankshaft, reducing complexity and weight while contributing to quicker engine warm-up.
	Engine cooling system features a series flow coolant flow pattern that improves cold start rideability and provides rapid engine warm-up.
	Two side mounted radiators improve cooling efficiency and use low-air-pressure areas created by side cowls to draw cooling air through the radiators and around the rider at highway speeds. Below 25kmh, thermostat controlled fans pull cooling air across the radiators into the fairing, keeping hot air away from the rider.
	Sturdy eight plate clutch with maintenance free, hydraulically assisted clutch.
	Efficient, stainless steel six-into-two exhaust system produces a pleasing, powerful sound.
	Powerful, 1100 watt alternator uses a dual damper system to minimize alternator noise.
	Precise shifting five speed transmission includes overdrive fifth.

CHASSIS/SUSPENSION

	The innovative aluminum frame is specifically engineered for optimum rigidity with tuned flex. This combination of rigidity and flexibility produces excellent handling, superb riding comfort and wonderful road feel.
	Inherently smooth, flat six cylinder Gold Wing engine also serves as a tuned stressed frame member. The solid engine mounting system utilizes specially designed hangers and carefully matched mounting bolts to provide both excellent road feel and minimal engine vibration.
	The Gold Wing's rigid, Pro Arm single side cast aluminum swing arm provides simplified servicing of the rear wheel and tire while assuring optimum handling.
	Dual full floating 296 mm front discs with Linked Braking System (LBS) three piston calipers and a single ventilated 316 mm rear disc with one LBS three piston caliper provide excellent braking power.
	Honda's LBS features a second master cylinder and a three stage proportional control valve (PCV) to couple the three piston calipers of the dual front and single rear brake discs. Using the front brake lever activates the outer two pistons of the front right side caliper and the center piston of the front left side caliper and, acting through the secondary master cylinder and an inline proportioning valve, the outer two pistons of the rear caliper. The rear brake pedal operates the center piston of the rear brake caliper, the center piston of the front right side brake caliper and the outer two pistons of the front left side caliper. A delay valve sensitive to the rider's pedal pressure smoothes front brake engagement. Optional Anti Lock Brake System (ABS) features an electric-motor-driven modulator that provides rapid and precise braking pressure adjustments, resulting in smooth ABS operation. The system incorporates an integrated electronic control unit (ECU), self diagnostics with an interactive ECU test function, and automatic protection against system failure.
	Massive 45 mm front fork houses a cartridge damper in the right leg with 140 mm of travel for a smooth yet superb ride in all road conditions.
	Allen antidote system minimizes front fork dive when braking. The system utilizes brake fluid pressure generated in the secondary LBS master cylinder mounted on the left fork leg and is activated by input from either the front brake lever or the rear brake pedal. This first ever application of antidote and LBS produces enhanced stability when maneuvering at both low speeds and highway speeds.
	Pro-Link-mounted rear shock provides 104 mm of plush travel for relaxed touring or
	sport riding.
	New, computer controlled adjustable hydraulic rear suspension pre load is easily set by the rider with push-button controls and features a two position memory.
	Unique, driveshaft-damping system utilizes a double pipe structure, with a rubber bonded coating applied to the inner pipe to absorb road shock and engine torque. The long life design reduces weight in the Pro Arm assembly and simplifies rear wheel maintenance.
	A smaller, lighter final gear case assembly in the Pro Arm is achieved through the redesign of the pinion gear and ring gear assemblies. This new design eliminates wheel alignment splines and assures accurate alignment of the rear wheel after servicing.
	Cast aluminum 18- x 3.5-inch front wheel and 16- x 5.0-inch rear wheel are lightweight and strong.
	Radial touring tires are specifically engineered for the Gold Wing, providing a combination of excellent traction, cornering grip and tire life.

ACCESSORIES

	Audio accessories include: six-CD changer, CB radio kit, CB antenna, rear speaker set, audio headsets (available for open and full face helmets), passenger audio controller.
	Air management accessories include: windshield (available in tall and short sizes), windshield side air deflectors (available in standard and tall sizes), fairing side air deflectors, rear spoiler (four colors) with brake light, lower trunk spoiler (four colors), lower saddlebag spoiler (four colors).
	Functional touring accessories include: heated grips with thermostat, running light kit, accessory socket kit.
	Touring convenience accessories include: removable saddlebag/trunk liner set (available in standard and deluxe type), trunk net, saddlebag/trunk mat set (available in standard and deluxe type), seat weather cover, full cycle cover, front nose mask, trunk vanity mirror with light, trunk inner light.
	Chrome appearance accessories include: front lower cowl, rear under cowl, front fender ornament, front fender extension, front disc cover, passenger floorboard under cover, side fairing accent, windshield garnish, trunk rack (two types), front fender guard rail, saddlebag guard rail, trunk guard rail, saddlebag scuff pads, saddlebag molding kit, trunk molding kit, side stand, exhaust finisher (turndown style).
	Carbon fiber appearance accessories include: front fender ornament, instrument accent,
	saddlebag molding kit, trunk molding kit.
	Special accent accessories include: front fender emblem, gold emblem set, special cylinder head emblems (three designs), instrument accent (available in wood, carbon and aluminum appearances).

Accessory Misc.

There are some correlations between the CD-player for the Honda CRV and the Wing, but no-one has been able to determine if they are the same or not yet. The first part of the part# from Honda just indicates that it is a CD changer and although I'm not familiar with the motorcycle part#'s it would make sense for Honda to stick to one numbering format. The second and last group of #'s are actually the important ones in indicating what they will fit. Unfortunately, Honda doesn't provide any wiring diagrams for the audio components so we can't provide any hint as to what wires do what on the connector.

Here are the model #'s and ordering information in case anyone wants to try this. Some discount on-line places include http://www.handa-accessories.com/ if you'd like to see if the plug in will work. Reasoning says it will, but we need to get one to test.

CD Players

08A26-1B1-100
08A06-3B1-300

CASSETTE Player

08A03-581-111

SPECIFICATIONS

Model: GL1800A/GL1800
Engine Type: 1832 cc liquid cooled horizontally opposed six cylinder
Bore and Stroke: 74 mm x 71 mm
Compression Ratio: 9.8:1
Valve Train: SOHC; two valves per cylinder
Carburetion: PGM-FI with automatic choke
Ignition: Computer controlled digital with three-dimensional mapping
Transmission: Five speed including overdrive, plus electric reverse
Final Drive: Shaft
Suspension
Front: 45 mm fork with antidote system; 140 mm (5.5 inches) travel
Rear: Pro Arm single side swingarm with Pro-Link; electronically controlled spring pre load adjustment with two memory presets; 104 mm (4.1 inches) travel
Brakes
Front: Dual full floating 296 mm disc with LBS three piston calipers
Rear: Single ventilated 316 mm disc with LBS three piston caliper Optional ABS
Tires
Front: 130/70R-18
Rear: 180/60R-16
Wheelbase: 1691 mm (66.6 inches)
Rake (Caster Angle): 29.25¡
Trail: 109 mm (4.3 inches)
Seat Height: 739 mm (29.1 inches)
Dry Weight: 360kgs
Fuel Capacity: 25 liters
Colors: Pearl Blue, Pearl Yellow

California version meets CARB 2008 emissions standards. Specifications and features may vary from country to country without notice. Information is preliminary and may alter before final production specification is determined.

Bugs annoyances and Recalls

	Engine kill switch
	Difficulty of installing CB and CD players
	Drive Shaft Boot failures on some early models
	Front Fender too short
	Still no true "overdrive" for gas mileage
	Some GL-1500 features such as foot warmers and adjustable passenger bars missing
	CB / Radio "cut out" problem on some models
	Incorrect "trunk open" errors on most units
	NHTSA RECALL Failures in Pulse Rotor

PICTURES

Click the thumbnails for some nice shots of the new GL-1800 features and designs. Note the Japanese have a Pearl White version this year (right-hand side of page) which I hope comes to the states in 2002!

GL-1800 Feedback Form

Select the items that apply, and then send us your comments.

1800 Page spelling or display errors
Technical correction or addition on 1800's
Links or items of interest related to the 1800's

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Copyright © 2001 GoldWing World
Last modified: 05/25/06

Alternator and Charging information

A new 1100 watt alternator should power any lights you care to add and all the electric clothing you can stand!

Brake Information

The 1800 Gold Wing still has INTEGRATED braking, but it has changed somewhat. In addition there is an ABS option. Integrated braking means the rear brake pedal controls portions of both the FRONT and the Rear Disc brakes, and the front controls both to a limited degree as well now.

Reports of “Weak” braking on some new 1800’s:

The new brakes on the 1800 have been given rave reviews by most of us who have ridden the bike, but a few have reported problems braking for the first 100 miles or so. Whether they are just having to adjust to the slightly different “feel” or if some cosmoline was left on by the dealers is unknown at this point. I’ll print more as I get it!

Rebuilding Your Brakes:

Motorycycle Consumer News has a great article by Dave Searle on this at http://www.mcnews.com/depts/brakreb299.html from which I’ve gleaned the following:

Most of the common problems with motorcycle brakes can be traced to degraded brake fluid, improper break-in or the accumulation of grunge and grime in the calipers.

Glycol-based brake fluids like DOT 3—4 are hygroscopic, meaning they attract water, which over time leads to corrosion on caliper pistons and greatly diminished resistance to boiling at high temperatures—very dangerous. They also varnish with age, like stale gas. These problems are easily prevented with yearly fluid changes.

Squealing brakes are often the result of glazed pads that have been overheated during break-in, burning the pad material so that it carbonizes into an abrasive state that also contributes to disc wear, or the failure to clean the disc surface of grime or the residue of old pad material when switching types—an often overlooked but necessary step whenever you change pad compositions.

Pistons fail to retract when they become jammed with grunge, causing brake drag, wear, weird handling and reduced gas mileage. Here’s what you’ll need to do to make ’em work like new again.

Before the first drop of brake fluid is spilled, remember that the glycol-based DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids are excellent paint removers. Have a spray bottle of soapy water handy for instant clean-ups and protect the gas tank with a cover of some kind when filling the master cylinder.

To remove the pistons, you’ve got two choices:

1) Apply compressed air through the hose passageway, taking care that your fingers are out of the way and using a wad of shop rags to catch the mess, or
2) simply pump the piston(s) out using your brake lever (this method is safer, less messy).

With a new seal and dust boot installed, the piston is lubricated with fresh brake fluid prior to installation. Wear surgical gloves to keep the brake fluid off your skin. The only trick here is to get the dust boot stretched over the piston before sliding it in. Multi-piston brakes usually don’t have these boots, and the seal area needs to be cleaned yearly to prevent sticking.

The parts of the system are ready to reinstall: Our front pads had lots of life left, and so were reused. The wear markings on their back sides enabled us to return them to their original positions. Note: To clean multi-piston calipers, remove the pads and scrub away the dirt buildup in the clearance between the piston and body with WD-40 and an old toothbrush.

Single-action brakes utilize floating caliper mounts to enable the caliper to remain centered over the discs as the pads wear. These should be cleaned and lubed with a high-temperature grease to make sure they move easily. Make sure their dust boots (if any) are not ripped or cracked.

When a hydraulic system is drained, it’s like a pump that needs to be primed. The easiest way to get it working again is to suck the fluid down from the master cylinder, pulling the air out as you refill the caliper. This EZE Bleeder syringe is a big help (about $25, through K&L Supply ).

To finish the job once you’ve got pressure at the master cylinder, bleed the brakes as you would normally. Open the line, squeeze and hold the lever, close the line, release the lever and repeat as many times as necessary until no air is seen in the clear plastic line to the catch bottle.

If you change brake pad types, you need to know that the disc should ideally be glass-beaded if it’s not reground as ours was. At the least, the disc should be scrubbed with fine emery paper to remove the residue of the previous pads. Afterwards, clean with lacquer thinner or acetone.

Don’t forget to put a wipe of white grease on the axle, too, before reinstalling it. If you’ve ever had to remove an axle that rusted into the bearings, you’ll never let anyone forget this step. You can make sure that the axle isn’t bent by rolling it on a piece of plate glass.

As a final trick to get the best possible contact between the shoes and drum, spin the rear wheel and press down hard on the brake pedal. This will help center the backing plate before you tighten the rear axle. Special thank Jeff Gehrs at Ferodo for his advice on this article.

Article on changing to Stainless

The following is from CyberCycle magazine a really great publication:

Why do I want to replace my stock rubber brake line with a stainless steel braided brake line?

Well, it's not a necessity, but it's an easy way to get more efficient braking. Most, if not all, stock brake lines are rubber. When you engage your brake the brake fluid puts pressure on the rubber brake line, which causes it to expand slightly. Any pressure that is being used to expand the brake line is pressure that is Not being used to stop your bike. A braided stainless steel brake line won't expand as much as a rubber one; this makes for more efficient braking (and Matt claims there is a better, more precise "feel" in the braking, although I'm not sure I can tell a difference).

How easy is it to replace my brake line?

Ohhhh, this is an easy one. It took us less than an hour to swap out the brake line. You only need a few items to do the swap:

	Your new brake line and its associated hardware (ordered from a local shop - you tell them what bike you have, and they'll get you the right SS line)
	A couple of bottles of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid (check your manual for which kind to use)
	Closed-end wrenches for use on brake line parts (the parts are delicate; you don't want to bung them up)
	Torque wrench (for tightening the new line)
	A bottle to catch the old fluid

Now let me explain how to swap your line. There are a few things you need to know about brake fluid before you start messing with it:

1) it eats paint, skin, and anything else it comes in contact with, so be careful not to spill it on your tank, your hands, or your dog,

2) brake fluid is SUPER water-absorbent. When you're not using the bottle of fluid, CLOSE IT or it'll be ruined, and

3) don't re-use brake fluid. If you use "new" brake fluid to bleed your line, you can't catch it at the bottom and pour it back in the top. Once it's gone through your brake system and out the other side, it's OLD, so don't re-use it!

Now, start with your old line. Open the bleeder valve (check your manual if you're not sure where it is), attach a short hose, and let the fluid drain out of the line. As you're letting the fluid drain out of the old line, remove the cover for the brake fluid reservoir (the box-looking thing located somewhere near your right handlebar). Use some paper towels to sop up all of the brake fluid from the reservoir. Once the brake fluid is completely drained from the reservoir, you can remove the brake line connection at the top. (When you do so, make sure you have some paper towels handy in case you need to mop up a leak or a spill.)

Before you chuck your old brake line, check it and remove any rubber mounting thingies that might be on it. You'll want to swap those rubber thingies onto the new brake line, so you can firmly mount it .

Now take your new brake line (isn't it beautiful?) and attach it (with the NEW mounting bolts and NEW crush-washers which should have come with it) to the brake fluid reservoir. Don't tighten it just yet, but attach it loosely.

Thread the brake line through the appropriate mounting areas (in other words, put the new brake line exactly where the old one was), and then bolt it onto the bottom mount (loosely - don't tighten it just yet).

Take your torque wrench and tighten the two mounting bolts to spec. (The line on the Hawk GT had to be tightened to 30 N-m; you should check your manual for the spec for your bike.) Once the two bolts are tight, you're ready to add the brake fluid. (There are some folks who actually make sure the new brake line is full of fluid before they put it in place. I have NO idea how they do this... if you're one of those people, drop me a line and tell me your secret - I'll pass it on!) Pour the brake fluid into the top reservoir, keeping it topped up while you bleed the brakes.

Finally, you need to bleed your brake line until there are no more air bubbles. Air bubbles in your brake line are BAD. They can be deadly. If there are air bubbles in your brake line, the best-case scenario is that your brakes will be very spongy, and the worst-case scenario is that they won't work at all. So bleed, bleed, bleed. And it's a good idea to let the bike sit for a day or two after the swap so that any bubbles you missed can work their way out on their own, and then bleed the brakes again.

Fuel Injection and Air Intake

The new 1800 has fuel injection.

Air Filters:

Chrome and Accessories

Kuriyakin is a perpetual favorite for Gold Wingers. Other neat places to check out include:

AeroStich, Chrome World, HeliBars, Tulsa Enterprises,

Clutch Information

The 1800's clutch is "Pressure driven" meaning that upon release the oil pressure helps the springs to hold the clutch pressure plates together. This means better grip and performance with less wear WITHOUT having a stiffer clutch spring.

Exhaust System

Tulsa Enterprises

Lighting

Lubrication and Cooling

Cooling

Check out EVANS waterless coolent systems. Works WONDERFULLY well and is PRESSURELESS and WON’T BOIL OVER. Not to mention you take that nasty oxidizing water out of your 14,000 dollar machine! Go HERE for how to convert your wing to this system. Note: the temperature gauge will read HOTTER after the change over due to more heat being transferred. This is NOT a bad thing.

Oil

Links to Lubrication and Oil summaries: bottom line: anything over Castrol is a waste of money but is YOUR choice!

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/lubricants-redline.html

http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt.

http://www.riem.com/disk$user_disk1/http/Oil_Facts.txt

http://www.riem.com/disk$user_disk1/http/Snake_Oil.txt

http://lonestar.texas.net/~jrh/oil_faq.html or

ftp://ftp.cecm.sfu.ca/pub/RMR/Accessories/Oil/Summary

Mobile has their own FAQ: http://www.oslonett.no/nl/ndiv/Mobil/automotive/oil-faq.html and more info starting at: http://www.mobil.com/lubes/automotive.html

Oil Filter:

The 1800 has a new filter, reportedly the same as used on the new RC-51. More on this as I get it.

Radio and Intercom

The standard helmet headset wiring is as follows: NOTE: 5-pin DINS are not number in order, so use the enclosed GIF image to determine what pin is which #.

Pin 1 Mic Shield

Pin 4 Mic hot

Pin 2 Audio Ground

Pin 5 Left Audio

Pin 3 Right Audio

The Left and right may be swapped since motorcycle stereo's do not have balance controls.

Note that Din connectors are not laid out 1,2,3,4,5 Check the molded terminals on the connector or the following GIF image for the correct number.

Seats: Ratings and links

Corbin is arguably the best looking, but most people SWEAR by Russell Day-Long, and they have the only 100% money-back satisfaction guarantee in the business. Check them out!

Shocks & Suspension:

The new 1800 has some new systems and a single-sided rear swing arm, more on this as I get it.

Fork Seals

Fork seals should be replaced at the first sign of oil appearing on the stanchion tubes' legs. At first, there will be a black ring of oily dirt at the top of the fork's travel. If allowed to go on unchecked, the leak will worsen until there is enough oil accumulated on top of the dust seal to run down the back of the fork leg, straight onto the brake calipers. Eventually the fork will run out of oil, seizing the bushing surfaces that allow the fork halves to slide, thereby locking up the front end.

How to fix a leaky Fork seal? Simple: Replace it by following the procedure outlined in your manual!
Begin by letting any air out of the shocks (if so equipped) then loosen the upper triple tree's pair of bolts that clamp down on the fork legs, and then loosen the fork caps atop each leg. Just a half turn or so, don't unscrew them. Next, loosen the brake caliper bolts and the front axle. Then prop the front end off the ground.

Once safely aloft, remove the brake caliper(s), speedometer cable, front fender, and front wheel. Depending on your bike's model, you may also need to loosen or remove brake hose clamps, the handle bars, fairings or air caps. Loosen the triple clamp bolts that secure the fork leg, and pull the fork down and out with a twisting motion. Now take it to the shop and have them replace the seals (G) seriously the following steps are messy, and I always skip them and take the forks in, but in case you are adventurous I'll leave them in here:

Place the upper half of the fork vertically in a soft-jawed vice (one with brass or lead inserts), being careful not to damage the chrome plating. In order to get the fork cap off, there must not be any vice pressure near the top of the fork leg. Back off the spring preload adjuster and remove the cap carefully - expect the spring inside the leg to push the cap off forcefully. Usually, you can hold your hand over the top of the cap while turning it with a box-end wrench, preventing it from flying across the garage. Remove the spring and drain the oil into a container. Stroke the fork a few times to get all the oil out.

Notice that the fork will only extend a certain amount then stop. The two fork halves are held together by the damper rod, and the amount of fork travel is determined by the length of the damper rod. A socket-head cap screw (an Allen bolt) runs through the bottom of the outer leg and into the bottom of the damper rod, holding the two pieces together. The length of the rod passes through the bottom opening of the inner tube, stopping the inner leg's travel with its head, which has a small spring attached to cushion the rod/inner tube when the fork "tops out."

In order to separate the fork halves, the bolt hidden within the bottom of the outer tube must be removed from the damper rod. To prevent the rod from merely spinning with the bolt, a special tool is inserted down the inner tube to fit into the head of the damper rod. The manufacturers sells this tool, but a proper-sized nut welded to the bottom of an old spark-plug socket works just as well.

With the damper rod free, the forks will almost separate, but are stopped by the lower slide bushing (on the inner tube) hitting the upper guide bushing (on the outer tube). Remove the dust seal at the top of the outer leg to reveal the metal spring-clip underneath. Pry it out with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Now the seal is free to come out with a little persuasion. Clamp the outer tube in a vice using the brake caliper mounting tabs, and firmly grasp the inner tube. Now fill the fork assembly full of oil and pressurize it so that the oil drives out the seal. This is messy, and is reason enough to take the tubes to a shop in my opinion!

Now that the legs are apart, it's time to clean and inspect. Clean all the non-rubber parts to remove the contaminated oil. Look carefully at the chrome surface of the inner tube. Pay particular attention to the area swept by the seal. Any pitting, scratches, or rust spots must be removed in order for the new seal to work. Use wet-n-dry emery cloth soaked with oil, or an oiled honing stone to take off the rough edges of small pits. If the pitting is severe, or the chrome has worn through to the underneath layer, the leg needs to be replaced.

Inspect the two bushings. The one on the bottom of the inner tube has a Teflon coating on the outside, and the bushing should stay on the leg. It's not necessary to remove it for inspection, and some manufacturers specifically say not to take it off unless you're replacing it. If the gray surface is showing any signs of the brass underneath it, junk it for a new one. The upper guide bushing that came out with the seal has its coating on the inside. If it looks worn, give it the same treatment. In fact, because of the banging it gets on its way out, most manufacturers recommend replacing it with the seals.

Assuming everything is in order, it's time to re-assemble the fork. There should be an exploded view of all the parts of the fork in the factory service manual that you have open in front of you. Installation is the reverse of the disassembly, with the exception of banging the seals back in. With the damper rod installed and tightened, slide the upper guide bushing over the fork leg and into the recess where it sits in the outer leg. Ideally a seal driver should be used for this part, another expensive factory tool, but you may have something laying around in your garage that will work just the same: If you've ever changed a set of steering head bearings, and thought that the old damaged races that came out were just useless junk, well think again. With a little luck, they just may be the perfect size to use for a make-shift seal driver!

Just make sure that the bearing race doesn't get jammed in the same housing the bushing is going into. If it looks like it's going to work, use a heavy hammer and a flat-blade screwdriver on the bearing race to gently drive the bushing in. Make sure to start the bushing carefully, tapping around the circumference of the driver, so that it goes in square. Grease the lips of the new seal before sliding it over the fork leg, and drive it in the same way. Install the clip, making sure that it seats in the groove all the way around the leg, followed by the dust seal.

Using the factory service manual fill the fork leg with the specified amount of the recommended weight of oil. Now, if your bike had a mushy feeling front end to begin with, under-sprung and under-damped like a pogo-stick, it may be beneficial to go with a thicker weight of oil. If the book says 10 weight, try using 15 or 20 weight.

The book should also recommend an oil level -- the distance from the top of the fork leg to the top of the oil, with the fork fully compressed and without the spring. This is a more accurate measurement of how much oil is in the forks. Make sure to stroke the fork a few times to fill the damper rod and purge any air before measuring the oil level. The last inch of travel will be very slow, but make sure the fork is fully compressed or you'll get an inaccurate reading.

Re-extend the fork and install the spring, any spacers, and the fork cap. Insert the fork leg up through the lower triple clamp, make sure that the cables and hoses are routed around the leg properly -- especially the brake lines -- and tighten the clamp bolts. Now do it all again for the other leg. To make sure the forks are aligned properly when installed, take a pane of glass and put it across the exposed upper fork tubes. If it doesn't sit flat, something's crooked. If you've crashed the bike and made sure the fork tubes are straight, then there's a good chance that the triple clamp was bent. To fix this, remove the top triple clamp -- which only acts as a brace, and is rarely ever bent -- and drop both fork tubes down so they sit flush with the bottom triple tree. Tighten the bolts to firmly hold the forks, and put your pane of glass across the fork tubes. Then you can see which way the triple tree is bent -- luckily, it'll almost always be tweaked in a two-dimensional "front to back" plane, so just grab the bottom of the forks and pull (or push, as needed) really hard. It's not rocket science, but this will bend the triple tree back rather easily.

When the front end is completely re-assembled, set the suspension's sag, or the amount of travel used from full extension -- when the bike is upright without supporting either it's own weight or the rider's -- to the amount it "sags" under it's own weight and the rider's. Unless your bike is some raked-out chopper or a dirt bike, the sag should be 1.25 inches for sporting types, a bit more for street riders. The sag can be set with the spring pre-load adjusters on top of the forks. If there is no provision for adjustment, simply insert spacers on top of the springs.

REAR SHOCK ISSUES

The 1800 uses a single mono-shock that stiffens the ride considerably and gives better cornering. It has an electrically controlled "pre-load" setting too which is neat.

Starter and Ignition Information

Gold Wing Timing

Now done via chain, so no more timing belts to worry about. Some people are worried about this, but Honda’s automotive division has gotten 200 to 300 thousand miles out of their chain timing designs so I’m not too concerned.

Transmission

The gear ratios for the GL1500 vs the 1800 are purportedly:

1st - 2.666 2.375

2nd - 1.722 1.454

3rd - 1.272 1.068

4th - 0.964 0.843

5th - 0.758 0.686

Final Drive ratio: 2.833 2.751

I got this from the 1800 e-groups list and have NO idea what it means. (G)

Wheels: lubrication and Tire Information

Now running radials and it shows!

Windshields: Ratings and links

http://www.plastic-man.com/motor.html